The Return of Nebuchadnezzar

People pay their respects before the statues of late North Korean leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il at Mansu Hill as North Korea marks its 79th National Liberation Day (KIM WON JIN/AFP via Getty Images)

Just like the historic king of Babylon set his statue on the plane of Dura demanding every citizen to worship him, the same applies to the return of the gigantic statue, this time, not in Iraq.

For the first time in years, the North Korean government is allowing foreign tourists to enter the country on guided tours.

Nevertheless, in the past, tourists visiting North Korea were still under close watch by a sanctioned tour guide — limiting visitors to tour approved areas within the country.

Tourists traveling to North Korea will only be able to visit the city of Rason, which is said to be one of the least visited cities in the closed off country. In 1991, the northeastern city of Rason, which is close to the Russian and Chinese borders, was designated as North Korea’s first special economic zone.

The reopening of the country to tourists coincides national birthday celebrations for the late Kim Jong Il, a former dictator who passed away in 2011.

A group of western tourists recently made the first trip in February since the country closed itself off to tourists during the COVID-19 pandemic.

“The North Koreans aren’t robots. They have opinions, goals, and a sense of humor. And in our briefing we encourage people to listen to and understand them,” said Rowan Beard, the head of Young Pioneer Tours.

“Young Pioneer Tours specialize in taking you to North Korea and other worldwide ‘destinations your mother would rather you stay away from’ at budget prices,” the company’s website states.

The Western tourists described the trip as “extremely” controlled, where visitors were escorted the entire trip by approved guides who ushered visitors into a beer factory, a school, and a pharmacy.

“You can’t leave the hotel without the guides,” stated Ben Weston, one of the tour leaders. “A couple of times I even had to let them know when I wanted to use the bathroom. I’ve never had to do that anywhere in the world.”

The visit to the school included children’s dancing performances while animations of missiles flying through the air played behind them.

“The roads are awful, the pavements are wobbly, and the buildings are weirdly constructed,” said a North Korea traveler who goes by “Joe.”

“They’ve had five years to fix things. North Koreans are so sensitive about what they show tourists. If this is the best they can show, I dread to think what else is out there,” he continued.

Meanwhile, another visitor named Mike who spoke to the press recounted an experience in North Korea where he wrote “I wish the world peace” in a visitors book. He was later told by his guide that it “was an inappropriate thing to write… That made me paranoid,” he stated.

Although tourism in the country provides a rare opportunity for North Koreans to momentarily interact with foreigners, the trips generally still benefit the regime.

“This is not like tourism in other poor countries, where local people benefit from the extra income. The vast majority of the population don’t know these tourists exist. Their money goes to the state and ultimately towards its military,” stated Joanna Hosaniak, an individual involved in the Citizens Alliance for North Korean Human Rights